November 12 2017 | By Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite for Grubstreet
At Raviolo, Classic Italian Dishes Are Served Like Dim Sum
For such outspoken sticklers for tradition, Italians have a little-known experimental streak. It’s on display at Mulino a Vino in Chelsea, whose opening chef Davide Scabin infused the menu with whimsies like cacio e pepe doughnuts.
The restaurant’s owner, Paolo Meregalli, has expanded on the theme with a casual spinoff called Raviolo, where he translates classic Italian primi and secondi into a menu of dumplings (filled pastas) and buns (steamed-bread sandwiches), served dim-sum style with bamboo steamers and chopsticks.
What prevents this notion from qualifying as fusion, says Meregalli, is the fact that every ingredient is Italian, down to the steamed buns, which are made in-house. They make a pillowy cushion for the only version of spaghetti alla carbonara you should eat with your hands.
Instead of chopsticks, diners use wooden tongs to pluck Italian bites off plates at Raviolo, a modern little trattoria that brings dim sum flair to Italian cuisine. Mark up the menu for eggplant parmigiana reconstructed as four dumplings with pecorino fondue sauce. Carbonara buns are also designed for sharing, the roasted pork, crunchy onions and creamy carbonara sauce nestled in soft bread. There are noodles, too, in the form of linguine with pesto and black spaghetti with clam sauce.
Those who love to eat Italian food but are intimidated by heaping bowls of pasta will approve of this spot’s new way to chow down. At West Village boite Raviolo, consulting chef Massimiliano Eandi (Mulino a Vino) presents classic dishes as small plates, giving the flavors of the Boot a dim sum twist—when it comes to ordering, at least. Similar to single-serve bao or dumplings, Eandi’s pasta pockets are made for sampling and can be ordered via a checklist. But though the format is imported from China, the flavors are strictly Italian; think lasagna, eggplant parm and caprese paired with Negronis, prosecco and a three-layer Italian-inspired Bloody Mary.
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