February 18 2018 | By Rebecca Broderick for Melting Butter
RESTAURANT FIND: BESSOU NYC
“Discreetly tucked away off Bowery on Bleecker, Bessou NYC warmly glows. Exposed brick and soft wood accents are illuminated by light from petit candles, the kitchen, and a wide, paper chandelier hovers over the dining area. Complimentary tea is poured and food is served on rustic pottery: Bessou balances homeyness and elegance effortlessly.”
Maiko Kyogoku opened the restaurant [Bessou NYC] in 2016, offering composed, unpretentious, and interesting Japanese food. Chicken karaage is perfectly fried and slightly spicy while the beef tataki salad is fresh, bright, and herbaceous. The crispy rice has a generous offering of yellowfin tuna, wasabi aioli, and nori oil, then lightened with cucumbers. Each plate is complex, carefully considered, and introduces unique ingredients in accessible fashion. Bessou shares great food with such honesty and happily welcomes its diners into their home.
Bessou’s clever take on Japanese comfort food has us craving dishes beyond sushi and ramen. Maiko Kyogoku, who worked for hip contemporary artist Takashi Murakami, opened a stylish space in Noho that serves as an inviting stage for chef Emily Yuen’s innovative plates, many of which draw from Kyogoku’s family recipes. Yuen adds a modern touch to the classics with her bento bowl teeming with soy beef brisket and the chicken karaage dusted with Moroccan spices.
Their fried chicken (karaage) is especially popular. Soy-brined thighs are tumbled in a mix of wheat flour and potato starch, which, along with a double-dip in high-temp oil, fortifies the chicken with extra crunch. The hot bird gets an ample sprinkling of warming spices — including kochugaru (Korean chile powder), cayenne, cumin, and cinnamon — and on the side, there’s a dish of soothing tzatziki, with shredded shiso mixed in with the dill, mint, garlic, and cucumber.
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